Sunday 25 May 2014

Welcome to Ubud

After the Galungan ceremony blessing
    My staycation came to a very quick end, and after saying bye to Nick, jumping in the van prearranged to get me from the hostel in Sanur, and driving an hour to Ubud, I pulled up in front of a café called Kopi Desa and was told the house across the street was where I'd be staying. The arrival and greeting portion of my new placement was all a bit disorganized, but once I had it all sorted out, I dropped my bags in my new room and slowly met some of the other people already living there. My house is a traditional Balinese-style family compound, with rooms/houses for everyone in my host family, a kitchen, a family temple, and a ceremonial area only visited for deaths, births and tooth fillings. It is quite beautiful, with palm trees, banana trees, bougainvillea and stone paths filling the surrounding areas within the stone walls. Our house is made up of 4 rooms, each with 4 beds, all of which are now full except for 2.

    My first week was full, exciting, fun, informative, overwhelming and exhausting all at the same time. My placement began with an orientation week that is used to introduce you to the culture and your surroundings. Days were packed with a lot of walking, visits to temples, lessons, you name it. To be honest, I feel like I've done and seen just about everything there is! We covered the following -

Penjors
    The Sacred Monkey Forest (again), rice paddy fields, markets, city/village tours, Batik Painting, language lessons, Tirta Empul Temple, cooking class, making flower offerings, Campuhan Ridge, Galungan ceremony and I'm sure some things I'm missing. This past week and next week are holidays here in Bali - Galungan and Kuningan. They mark and are a celebration of ancestors coming back to visit the earth and then leaving again. We were welcomed into a ceremomy at our village's temple on Wednesday to welcome the ancestors back to earth, and were blessed. It was definitely an interesting experience! The streets here are all decorated and lined with penjors, which are tall, bent, bamboo trunks that every family decorates and then stands up outside their house.
Batik Painting
   
    My favorite activities from last week's orientation were the Batik Painting and visiting the Tirta Empul Temple. The group of us got to go to a paint shop down the road from us, learn how to do Batik painting and then make our own piece to take. It involved drawing/tracing out a design of our choice on the white sheet, waxing the outline, painting the inside with watercolours of our choice,  letting it dry, removing the wax, and voila! Pretty happy with my final product.

    Our visit to Tirta (holy water) Empul Temple was incredible. We arrived in our full temple wear - shoulders covered, proper sarongs, belts - and had the chance to join the locals in the holy water, makes wishes and receive blessings. After 2 hours spent there, I had waded in the (very cold) holy water, made 14 wishes, splashed myself (14x3) 42 times, and dunked under 14 seperate waterfalls. It was neat being able to watch all of the locals who were there as well, from newborns to great grandparents, most people being there with their entire family. They all seemed very happy to see/have us there,  though that has been a common trend with most people I have encountered here so far, especially in the smaller villages - extremely welcoming amd friendly.


  
   The week has been capped off with a girls weekend to Seminyak to relax on the beach, enjoy some A/C, sit by the pool and sip on a drink or two from an IV bag. Confused? Look-up Frankensteins in Seminyak...you'll understand!


    XOXO Nicky

Bali Staycation

    After flying overnight from Chiang Mai, with a layover in Bangkok (where I cozied up in a corner on the floor for some zzz's), I was more than happy and excited to see the island of Bali growing out of the crystal-clear, blue water, from the window of my Air Asia plane. Though I was convinced we were about to land in the water, the tarmac suddenly appeared below the wheels of the plane and we taxied to the gate. The airport itself was beautiful, built reflecting the architecture I have now seen so much of around Bali - detailed stone carvings, pointed roofs, Buddha statues and animal statues. I made quick time to get my visa, grab my bag, fly through customs, into a cab shared by a fellow Canadian, and into my hostel, where I was very happily greeted by an old friend of mine. Nick and I had discovered a couple weeks prior that we would overlap in Bali, so made a plan to meet in Sanur. That afternoon was spent exploring Sanur Beach, learning everything there was to know about a very friendly local who decided to join us (only to be ushered into her stall later), and finding a good spot to eat dinner.

    We had talked to a few people on the road about renting a scooter, so the following day we went back to the one who had the best deal, and jumped on a scooter, heading towards Ubud. This time I was not at the wheel and instead could enjoy the view. While on the highway, a local on his scooter waved us down to the side of the road to kindly let us know our back license plate was trying to escape. While he was fixing it, he and Nick got into a discussion about traditional Balinese coffee (Lowak Coffee) and would we like to follow him to a place where they make it. With no real plans set, we figured why not,  and off we set, following the man on his scooter, still in the direction of Ubud. We arrived at a very lush, jungle-looking property, to be greeted by a lovely lady, waiting to tour us through the garden. We were introduced to and shown a number of different plants and animals in cages, including Lowaks (that look a bit like ferrets) and a giant bat that was caged up just for show...a good 1.5 feet long! The property overlooked some beautiful, vast, rice paddy fields, with a line of tables under cabanas setup for you to sit and taste all of the coffee and tea they make. We learned the process for making Lowak coffee, which includes feeding the furry friends coffee beans, waiting for them to poop them out, and then drying them out, and though I was slightly reluctant, we each tried a cup. Honestly, it tasted like pretty normal coffee to me, but I was a big fan of their Coconut Coffee and Ginger Tea.
    
Lowak Coffee Spot
    After waving Selamat Tinggal to our hosts and being pointed in the direction of the Sacred Monkey Forest, we were off again. A few wrong turns later, and driving through the chaos of the centre of Ubud, we arrived at entrance #3 to the monkey forest. The forest is basically a very large jungle area, lightly fenced in, absolutely filled with monkeys eagerly waiting for you to feed them. Once we watched a man who had bought a bunch of bananas be completely attacked, we decided against the food thing and instead to just walk through and observe. Apparently, that didn't make a difference. About 5 minutes into our visit, we walked by a monkey who was seemingly calmly sleeping on the ground. A few seconds later, after seeing I had a purse, the monkey was up and stalking towards me, teeth exposed, with a minor growl. Quickly thinking to myself that I had opted out of getting my rabies shot before leaving Canada, I managed to stifle out a quiet scream of Nick's name, and soon he was in front of me having a stand off with Señor monkey. As soon as that had died down, we continued exploring the forest with no hassle...and my purse safely wrapped around Nick instead.
We had planned to head to a large temple we had read about but ended up getting very lost in Ubud, scooting through villages, unaware of our location on a map, being very happily surprised by what we encountered and discovered, including the famous Rice Paddy Terraces. They were absolutely gorgeous! Levels on levels of green fields stretching deep into the valley and up again. After a quick lunch at a café overlooking the terraces, we were back on the scooter to get lost, as that seems to be the best way to really discover areas. Cruising down roads with holes so big and spread across the streets, we were barely going 1km. We were driving up and down through valleys and forests including one road that on our way back up, I had to get off and walk up because it was so steep and the bike wouldn't go up fast enough to balance. The walk up to meet Nick was fine though, meeting two friendly gentlemen, casually carrying live and dead ducks in their bare hands. The getting lost thing didn't totally work in our favor when it came to getting back to Sanur though, as we had wanted to be back by 6 and instead rolled in at 8. The reason for a specific arrival? Enough time to sneak in a siesta before needing to be up again for our pick up to Mount Agung.

1:30AM start
    Nick and I had organized, before arriving in Sanur, to do one of the big volcano hikes in Bali...in fact, the biggest one. We were to be picked up from our hostel at 11:30pm, and driven to the starting point of the hike, where we met up with everyone else doing the same thing. Boy, did we ever not know what we were getting in for. I can proudly say now that the hike was definitely worth it, though while I was in it, my sentiments weren't exactly that. We started to climb at 1:30am, and reached the summit by 5:45, in time for sunrise. In between, we made about 5 stops which were used to sit down and rest, drink water, eat snacks, and at one point enjoy a fire for a bit. Everytime we stopped, we were reminded just how cold it was, as our sweat would start to freeze and the rough 8-degree cold would kick in. On average, the climb up the face of this enormous volcano was a 40-degree incline,  with sections increasing to a good 80-degrees...no exaggeration, we were quite literally rock climbing on our hands and knees near the end. The last 55 minutes of the climb was straight up, we were already well above the clouds, and rocks and dust were eacaping from under our feet with every step. We had our last break about 5 minutes from the top, where I made the mistake of looking down, sending me into a complete minor anxiety attack as a result of my fear of heights and the thought that nothing was stopping any of us from slipping amd tumbling down.
 


   
    Once we had made it to the top, and settled on the (very small and tight) summit, the sight of the glowing, fiery sun emerging in the distance, made all fears dissappear. The sunrise was the most amazing I've seen, probably because I was seeing it from 3152m above sea level on top of the highest point in Bali. On one side of the summit we had all of Bali below us, slowly waking up with the sun,  and on the other, was the drop into the massive (still active) volcanic crater.  Though terrifying, it was quite a thing of beauty. After resting on the summit for an hour and a half, we began our slow descent back down the mountain, chasing the shadow it created from the sun. The dust made the climb down very slippery and hard on the knees and the common reaction when reaching the bottom was to collapse on the ground. My legs were suffering for a few days after, but every minute of the experience was worth it. Facing another fear, unexpectedly pushing myself well out of my comfort zone....check. Have to say, the massages on the beach we treated ourselves to later that afternoon definitely helped, too.

XOXO Nicky





Tuesday 13 May 2014

From Singapore to Chiang Mai


    Once again, an adventure goes by far quicker than expected. The last two weeks with Jocelyn completely flew by - a whirlwind of exploring, laughing, ups and downs. We covered 3 countries, 5 cities, traveled in 2 planes, 2 ferries, and 1 train. Every separate destination had its pros and cons, all of which we both loved. I will do my best to layout the highlights of each place, to give you a glimpse into what's happened the last two weeks! 

Singapore    Highlight #1? Jocelyn arriving. After much anticipation, and a very relaxing sleep in the beautiful Crowne Plaza in Singapore, I met Joce at the arrivals area of terminal 1. Happy tears, screams, and some stares from strangers could be found surrounding the two of us until we decided to get moving. We spent our 2 days in Singapore staying at a sweet hostel, downtown, in a dorm with 7 other people. The city was definitely a big change from the jungle of Sri Lanka. Similar to Toronto, big buildings, some fascinating architecture, and tons of people, none of who stared, paid any attention to you, or cat-called. A welcome change from what I had become accustomed to in Sri Lanka.
   
    I think by the time Joce and I left Singapore, we had walked through and around the entire city at least 3 times, seen everything we wanted to see and done everything we could. We found Marina Bay Sands almost right away (not hard to spot), went up to the top for the view, and explored the gardens surrounding the buildings. Stumbled across Fort Canning Park and ended up spending quite a few hours walking around it, learning everything possible about Singapore's history, plus more. After jumping on the subway one morning, and arriving to a perfect monsoon, we eventually had the chance to see the Singapore Botanic Gardens (beautiful....the orchids were my favorite). We chose to use our feet to get back downtown, and walked along the famous Orchard Road. Apart from getting pooped on by a flying pigeon (typical), the street was interesting. Only a few blocks long and I think I counted 4 Louis Vuitton stores, 3 Prada, 3 Coach, 3 Rolex, 1 Burberry.... I think you get the point. As well, everything was mixed in with tiny convenience stores, low-end shops and sketchy-looking bars.

Kuala Lumpur

    Our overnight train experience to Kuala Lumpur was polar opposite from the first train I took in Sri Lanka. We had booked ourselves 2 seats in 1st class, at a fair price, and were very comfortably seated in a quite, air conditioned, spacious cabin with an 8-hour journey ahead. I even managed to get a bit of sleep! Overall, Kuala Lumpur was a happy median between Singapore and Thailand, in terms of city cleanliness, the people, the architecture, the sounds and smells, etc. As we pulled into the train station very early, we had the whole day to set out and discover KL, after checking in to our very fun, cool and hip hostel. Once again, we took the approach of walking wherever our feet took us to get to know Kuala Lumpur. First stop was the KL Tower (similar to CN Tower), followed by some shops, a stop for lunch, and back to the hostel for some siestas.  We had attempted going up the Petronas Towers (my #1 pick) but learned we had to by tickets in advance, so we did for sunset! Those tickets were definitely worth it. We were met at the elevators with a few other from our group, and taken on a 45 minute tour, making stops at the Observation Bridge between the two buildings (which by the way, isn't technically attached to the buildings at all) and up to the top observation floor. The view was incredible and the floor was covered in fun, interactive stations to learn more about the innovative towers. Later in the evening, we found ourselves on one of KL's helipads, which transforms into a bar at night. We had been told about this hidden spot, and with the help of some locals, we found it! Once I put my fear of heights behind me, the experience was breathtaking. You could see the entire city lit up, including the KL and Petronas Towers, there were no barriers hindering the view....and we were on a helipad!!
   
    For our second day in Kuala Lumpur, we chose to go on a tour, organized through our hostel, that took us to the 7 Wonders of KL - Chinese Temple, National Royal Palace (according to the flag, the King was home), Batu Caves, Pewter Factory, War Memorial, National Mosque and the KL City Gallery. We had a wonderful tour guide who was filled with enthusiasm,  patriotism and knowledge about the city. The great thing about the tour was that each stop was so different from the next, taught us different information about the city, religion, history, customs, etc. My favorite stops being the Pewter Factory and the City Gallery.


    Next stop, Thailand! We flew Air Asia to Krabi and happily landed in a huge thunderstorm. Turns out rain and storms were the constant welcoming committee at all of our new destinations, although the rain throughout our whole trip wasn't too bad. I like Krabi! The center of town reminded me a lot of Kegalle. Friendly people, lots of shops, markets, and scooters buzzing around. We spent only one night in Krabi as a layover spot before boarding our ferry to Koh Phi Phi.

Thailand
    Koh Phi Phi was, special. I think Joce and I both agreed spending 3 days there was more than enough. We arrived at the dock to be greeted by a representative from our hostel, who took our bags from us and threw them in a 'taxi' (a metal wheelbarrow-type thing) and escorted us to Ibiza House. The island has no roads and is simply made up of beach, jungle and a maze of little walkways/alleys, lined with restaurants, bars and shops. As soon as we checked in and dropped our bags we took a walk along the beach. To be honest, I was a bit disappointed right away, only because of what I had heard and seen about this island. The main beach with extremely dirty, covered in garbage, smelled bad and with the tide being far out, it exposed even more washed up garbage. It was easy to tell the beach just turns into one giant party at night, every night, that isn't really cleaned up the next day. And that's exactly what we witnessed night one! All of the bars along the beach have music blaring, fire shows happening, backpackers who got stuck working as promoters trying to lure you in, and bucket promotions you can't resist (buckets - sand pales filled with your favorite drink). The fire shows were my favorite part. We planted ourselves down at what I'd consider the best show on the beach, and weren't disappointed. After some time, the audience was encouraged to join in and I managed to limbo under a bar of fire, jump through a ring of fire AND be carried under the bar of fire when it was about two feet off the ground, by lying across one of the show man's legs as he 'limboed' under. The picture may give a better idea :).
  
  
  Luckily, we got ourselves on a boat trip on our last day that took us to a number of the surrounding islands, to snorkel, sink our feet in white sand, swim in crystal clear water and even checkout some monkeys. Still, tourists crowded every stop we made, but that just seems to be the way it is there now!
    
    As I write this, I am now in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand. Joce and I arrived here about a week ago and immediately fell in love with it. The city is made up of Old and New Chiang Mai City (clearly differentiated by the old brick wall that can still be seen along parts of the old city perimeter), is laid out on a perfect N, E, S, W grid and is far more developed than I was expecting. The people are friendly, sweet and very helpful, including a high number of expats. The food is delicious, and surprisingly I have yet to get sick of rice, curry and pad thai. Wats, or temples, can be found on almost every corner...as well as good old 7-Elevens. The markets are incredible! You can, without a doubt, find a day or night market everyday, including the famous Walking Street, Sunday market (right outside my guesthouse), and Chiang Mai's Original Night Bazaar. The markets are filled with handmade items, clothes, jewelry,  souvenirs, fake designer goods, delicious street food and fresh juices. To my surprise, the Sunday market that I walked out on, which literally went for miles, also had a large section of the market devoted to massages! Lines of plastic lawn chairs with cushions and locals by each yelling 'Thai massaaaage!' The markets are definitely a shock on so many senses - sounds, scents, sights - but are so much fun to explore. 
    Highlights from what Joce and I did here were a Thai cooking class, renting a scooter, and going up to Doi Suthep Temple. The cooking class was a ton of fun, delicious and very filling. We started by taking a walk to a local market to learn about the ingredients we'd be using and then headed back to the lovely home where the class took place to make spring rolls, hot and sour soup, Cashew Chicken, and Chiang Mai red curry (my selection of recipes from a number of options we were given). Renting a scooter, we felt, was a must, so we chose to do it on the day we wanted to head up the mountain to Doi Suthep. After being given a run down on how the scooter worked, where the gas went, etc. we set off for he road, me at the wheel with Joce hanging on behind. The driving here isn't too hectic, so I managed. After the first feelings of stress and anxiousness wore off, and I started to get a hang of the steering, the weight and the gas, it was SO fun. And freeing. Such a great way to see the city. We started off by just following the flow of traffic going in a circle around the old city, then up and down streets, accidentally merged on to a highway, and eventually found the winding road that took us 13km up the mountain to Doi Suthep. The view from the top was breathtaking, showing off the entire city of Chiang Mai and the temple itself was beautiful. Once I parked the bike, we walked about 200 steps up to the top, where our eyes were opened up to countless Buddhas, and an entirely gold leaf covered temple. The trek back down was practically taken in neutral, with the occasional breaking, as the sun set behind the mountain.
   

   Since Jocelyn left, I have gotten to know this city even further, simply by walking up and down, around and around the new and old city, dropping in and out of various Wats along my way. I start my day by reading the paper and having a coffee (admittedly in Starbucks, but still...you need some home comforts every now and then!) and then setting off, with no map or planned destination, though keeping bearings on the Old city walls, to wear out my feet, sweat until I can no longer take it, and return to flop into the pool at my guesthouse. I learned today that the wall dates back to the 1500s, and the gate near my guesthouse was traditionally used to transport the deceased out of the town for cremation. The city is very beautiful, with a picturesque,  well landscaped canal that runs around the outside of the old city walls to separate it from the new city. I don't want to leave here, will definitely need to come back, but am so excited to move onto my next adventure. 

    With all of the constant moving,  new places, new people, sounds, sights and smells, and absorbing so much, everything seems like it was so long ago, already. Thinking of being in Singapore just two weeks ago, feels like it was a month ago. On to my next adventure now! Teaching and working with kiddies in Ubud, Bali for 2 months before I get back to the backpacking rhythm in July.