After flying overnight from Chiang Mai, with a layover in Bangkok (where I cozied up in a corner on the floor for some zzz's), I was more than happy and excited to see the island of Bali growing out of the crystal-clear, blue water, from the window of my Air Asia plane. Though I was convinced we were about to land in the water, the tarmac suddenly appeared below the wheels of the plane and we taxied to the gate. The airport itself was beautiful, built reflecting the architecture I have now seen so much of around Bali - detailed stone carvings, pointed roofs, Buddha statues and animal statues. I made quick time to get my visa, grab my bag, fly through customs, into a cab shared by a fellow Canadian, and into my hostel, where I was very happily greeted by an old friend of mine. Nick and I had discovered a couple weeks prior that we would overlap in Bali, so made a plan to meet in Sanur. That afternoon was spent exploring Sanur Beach, learning everything there was to know about a very friendly local who decided to join us (only to be ushered into her stall later), and finding a good spot to eat dinner.
We had talked to a few people on the road about renting a scooter, so the following day we went back to the one who had the best deal, and jumped on a scooter, heading towards Ubud. This time I was not at the wheel and instead could enjoy the view. While on the highway, a local on his scooter waved us down to the side of the road to kindly let us know our back license plate was trying to escape. While he was fixing it, he and Nick got into a discussion about traditional Balinese coffee (Lowak Coffee) and would we like to follow him to a place where they make it. With no real plans set, we figured why not, and off we set, following the man on his scooter, still in the direction of Ubud. We arrived at a very lush, jungle-looking property, to be greeted by a lovely lady, waiting to tour us through the garden. We were introduced to and shown a number of different plants and animals in cages, including Lowaks (that look a bit like ferrets) and a giant bat that was caged up just for show...a good 1.5 feet long! The property overlooked some beautiful, vast, rice paddy fields, with a line of tables under cabanas setup for you to sit and taste all of the coffee and tea they make. We learned the process for making Lowak coffee, which includes feeding the furry friends coffee beans, waiting for them to poop them out, and then drying them out, and though I was slightly reluctant, we each tried a cup. Honestly, it tasted like pretty normal coffee to me, but I was a big fan of their Coconut Coffee and Ginger Tea.
Lowak Coffee Spot |
We had planned to head to a large temple we had read about but ended up getting very lost in Ubud, scooting through villages, unaware of our location on a map, being very happily surprised by what we encountered and discovered, including the famous Rice Paddy Terraces. They were absolutely gorgeous! Levels on levels of green fields stretching deep into the valley and up again. After a quick lunch at a café overlooking the terraces, we were back on the scooter to get lost, as that seems to be the best way to really discover areas. Cruising down roads with holes so big and spread across the streets, we were barely going 1km. We were driving up and down through valleys and forests including one road that on our way back up, I had to get off and walk up because it was so steep and the bike wouldn't go up fast enough to balance. The walk up to meet Nick was fine though, meeting two friendly gentlemen, casually carrying live and dead ducks in their bare hands. The getting lost thing didn't totally work in our favor when it came to getting back to Sanur though, as we had wanted to be back by 6 and instead rolled in at 8. The reason for a specific arrival? Enough time to sneak in a siesta before needing to be up again for our pick up to Mount Agung.
Once we had made it to the top, and settled on the (very small and tight) summit, the sight of the glowing, fiery sun emerging in the distance, made all fears dissappear. The sunrise was the most amazing I've seen, probably because I was seeing it from 3152m above sea level on top of the highest point in Bali. On one side of the summit we had all of Bali below us, slowly waking up with the sun, and on the other, was the drop into the massive (still active) volcanic crater. Though terrifying, it was quite a thing of beauty. After resting on the summit for an hour and a half, we began our slow descent back down the mountain, chasing the shadow it created from the sun. The dust made the climb down very slippery and hard on the knees and the common reaction when reaching the bottom was to collapse on the ground. My legs were suffering for a few days after, but every minute of the experience was worth it. Facing another fear, unexpectedly pushing myself well out of my comfort zone....check. Have to say, the massages on the beach we treated ourselves to later that afternoon definitely helped, too.
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