Perahera Day

    Yesterday, I had the once in a lifetime experience of attending and going 'behind the scenes' of a traditional Sri Lankan Perahera. The owners of MEF had asked the day prior, if any volunteers would be interested in going to a local Perahera a few towns away that Pooja and Menika were participating in. So, myself, Katie and Emma excitedly opted in. We were scooped up by a driver just after lunch and driven to a town about 4km passed Rambukkana. Earlier in the day, the two elephants and their respective mahouts had walked to this town (total of 11km away), and later in the evening after the Perahera, walked back to MEF. A Perahera is a traditional Buddhist festival, most commonly found in Kandy in the summer months, that consists of a parade, elaborate costumes, singing, dancing, children, adults, and elephants. A number of towns throughout the country usually hold their own local Peraheras at different times during the year. A Perahera is best seen at night as this aspect adds bright lights and fire-breathing acts, but yesterday's was an afternoon affair.  
    As we drove through the village, we were passing under colorful banners above the road that were lining the parade route. Once we had passed the last banner, I noticed numbers popping up along the side of the road, in ascending order, and it soon became clear those numbers were for the various acts to line up and arrange themselves in order before the parade began. As we saw no one by their number just yet, we realized that (in typical Sri Lankan style) this Perahera was nowhere close to beginning. The driver stopped by a small park that had a number of people standing around in, as well as a few elephants tied to trees, including our own Baby Menika. Moonie, Baby's mahout, was very excited to see us arrive and jumped up to greet us. After an hour of sitting around, and seeing the elephant costumes being delivered, but not getting any further in figuring out when the parade would be starting, our driver motioned for us to get back in the van and off we drove in the direction we had come. We pulled over again by #1 on the side of the road (still seeing no one in position) and started walking back in the other direction. Slowly, we started seeing some kids in costume coming towards us, or running past, filled with energy and excitement over the afternoon's festivities. We stopped in at a few houses that had groups gathering to prepare for the parade, took some pictures and spoke to the kids about their costumes and what they'd be doing in the parade (with the help of a few locals with great English). The kids were ALL smiles at the sight of us, full of waves, 'Hi's and 'Bye's, and glowing faces as we walked along the road. We stopped at a bend in the road, on a slight hill, that our driver suggested would be a great place to see the parade go by. Took a little more patience, and soon we could hear drums and firecrackers in the distance, suggesting the parade was now underway (3.5 hours later).

Menika

   I will let the pictures do most of the talking, but seeing a real Perahera was incredible. The whole town comes out to watch! There were about 40 acts, whether it be groups (ranging in age from about 4-84) dancing, singing, playing instruments or just the elephants themselves. The costumes were so detailed and intricate, especially those of the elephants. All hand made, filled with beads, feathers, bells, and shiny bits and bobs. The music was loud and for reasons unknown, it seemed every single group would put on their full performance right in front of the three of us as they passed. The kids we had seen and talked to before, couldn't contain more waves and giggles as they passed us in the parade, noticing we were there to watch (and cheer them on, even though it doesn't seem like that's the 'thing to do').

    Baby starred near the beginning of the parade, walking alongside Moonie, covered in a bright red costume. Pooja on the other hand, was the last thing to be seen in the parade, making her the Grand Finale. She was decorated in a yellow costume with red and gold detailing, carrying two men, in costume, on her back, and walking alongside Roshan. Roshan was so excited to see me there, his face blew up in a big smile at the sight of us. There are so many people, noises, and things going on at a Perahera, it has to be extremely stressful for the mahouts when it comes to the behavior of their elephants.
    All in all, the experience was wonderful, and something I will likely never experience again. The sights and sounds were authentic and beautiful. Peraheras have been going on for hundreds of years and hold a lot of history.  Getting to see everyone prepare for the parade was extra special as you could see and pick up on what this tradition means to them, and their village.
    As is the way with a number of things I have seen and/or been apart of during my time in Sri Lanka, there were still parts to yesterday's festivities that didn't sit well with me. Mainly, the treatment of animals, with the most important one being the treatment of the elephants. I've had people ask me 'Do the elephants enjoy being in these?' which is a question that is hard to answer. Some people you ask will tell you 'YES' and that it doesn't harm them at all, while others will answer 'Not really.' By my own observation, (and having been around elephants and Pooja now for 6 solid weeks, but by no means calling myself an expert), I'd say the elephants don't enjoy them. I honestly believe that the costumes, though very hot, don't harm the elephants. They are comprised of separate parts, that when dressed on the elephants, still give them room to move freely, wave their trunks normally and flap their ears. Everything else seems to be too much. Like I mentioned, Peraheras are very hectic with a lot going on. It was obvious, by behavior, that some of the elephants really didn't seem too phased by it all as they passed by, where as others acted nervous and afraid - swaying aggressively from side to side, bobbing, etc. Pooja, when standing still, will start bobbing her head up and down out of pure boredom. She will also do it, more prominently, when she is anxious or nervous, which I saw as she came closer to me at the parade. As she passed me is when I got quite upset. It looked like she had been urinating almost the entire parade route, and her back legs were tied so tightly together she could barely move them. As Pooja marked the end of the parade, we joined her and Roshan and walked behind them. Almost every time Roshan turned to look at me, I was fixed on Pooja's back legs. On my way down to the office to write up this entry just now, I saw Roshan, and before I had a chance to say anything, he brought up the chains on Pooja's back legs, my obvious concern about them, and how they had to be like that for control, as the elephants are terrified of horses/ponies, which were the opening 'act' in the Perahera. Still not agreeing with them, at least they were explained. The Ponies. They were another thing we didn't enjoy about the Perahera. The little things were barely higher than my waist, and had fully grown men (trying) to ride them, and whipping them with sticks.

Pooja

    I'm happy Pooja had the long walk back to MEF last night to give her some well deserved freedom. It would have involved no chains, quiet back roads and Roshan calmly riding her (Roshan who probably weighs 80 lbs. soaking wet). I felt so, so proud seeing her in the Perahera, especially knowing what she was going through. I'm glad I was given the opportunity to really experience and be apart of such a longstanding tradition here, and learn more about what's involved in putting on such a festival.

XOXO Nicky